Відео

Well not everyone test rides - you aren't seeing it from me, because there is no point. The Pro is a specialist tool for tuners and professional mechanics so that they can do a short term change to a map. Yes, I could do what you suggest, but I'm not sure what value it would add. So far I have not tried to convince anyone to buy the Pro, quite the contrary, if you are not a tuner or professional mechanic I would recommend the Lite. Race Dynamics is the Asian equivalent of DynoJet. They are very well known with a strong reputation. Their products do exactly what they say - there is no snake oil here - these are professional level racing products and not actually even designed for use on the road.

@@MotoMirius In my case my short term fuel is 98% of the time negative 10 to 15%. I have an engine that sounds like a single diesel when over 3,700 rpm and over 1/2 throttle to max rpm 6,000. They use the word maps??? on the pro however if it is progressive across the rev range from 3 on, I’ll go for the pro and leave on the best setting. Cheers Brian

@@brianrobertson639 FuelX is only running off the lambda sensor, those 'maps' are a set of AFR targets. Ask yourself why there are multiple settings? Because they each only cover a specific range. If you choose a setting and the boundaries are outside what the bike needs then tough, you will be running too rich or too lean. It's a quick way to say goodbye to your engine. The FuelX doesn't know what the revs are - it's not connected to any sensor that will tell it that. The Pro isn't autotune, it will not compensate if you choose the wrong settings. It is designed to be used by a PROfessional who will be running a separate set of measurements and choosing a setting that will adjust a fixed map to a particular and temporary set of circumstances. But if you want to use it then I'm not going to stop you, because it's your bike and your choice.

@@MotoMirius Many thanks for that. Shall look at the auto tune unit. :-)

People have been cleaning chains with oil since chains were invented. I guess you've never tried it? Much better than using a detergent that will also strip out the oils and grease from the sealing rings and from inside the rollers, accelerating wear on the chain. Just because a detergent spray is quick doesn't mean that it is better.

The function of the grease here is to allow the parts to slide together without damaging the coatings and it helps to prevent corrosion. The rear wheel has bearings which do all of the work - there is no friction on the axle creating heat.

@@MotoMirius thank you!

You will get a little spillage from fuel that is the pipes - the tank will not leak unless you have a faulty fuel valve.

31 ​@@MotoMirius Should I try the operation with the tank almost empty? I thank you! I ask you, are you an owner of the bandit motorbike? Did you have any acceleration problems such as hiccups before you decided to change the spark plugs?

@@albertopego8220 If you do it with the tank almost empty then it will be lighter but otherwise it will not change anything. No, I did not have any acceleration problems. Changing spark plugs is just part of normal servicing - the purpose of normal servicing is to prevent avoidable problems happening

Hugger actually works very well. Which is why they are often fitted by manufacturers for adventure bikes/

You're welcome!

Many thanks

No, they both use the same mounting points. The stock crash cage will protect the radiator in most crashes - the bike will slide on the cage and handlebars. Of course it's still possible for something like a kerb to take out the radiator but you can't reasonably mitigate all risks.

@@MotoMirius awesome, thank you so much sir! I'm going to be practicing gymkhana in a closed parking lot for the next 5 months with my Duke 390 2021 but then I plan on taking it to track days after that. The set up for gymkhana that I'm working on putting on will be Bagoros's front spindle sliders, subcage, bar ends with lever guards, radiator guard, x-crash exhaust protector, and their paddock stand bobbins with the stock KTM Power parts crash cage. I'm thinking that when it's time for me to switch to track days that I'll get this set of crash bobbins from Bagoros in your video and swap it out for the stock crash cage then add the Bagoros ignition cover and clutch cover protectors and I'm thinking that I'll need to take off the subcage. I'm not sure how to best set it up for the track but I'm thinking that the stock crash cage and Bagoros subcage won't be allowed on a track. I'm also thinking about going with the Coober ECU, air box cover, and cat delete power kit.

@@ntdeas You will need to check what is and is not allowed on the tracks you wish to ride at and make your decisions from there. Coober is typically a reliable unit, but I'm not a major fan of the foam type lids - they work, but make sure you inspect them carefully to ensure that the foam is not coming unstuck.

@@MotoMirius awesome, thank you. Ride safe ,✌️

You may need a new master cylinder - not so many rebuild kits for the rear.

Probably. RC is different. But the RC changed to this long before the Duke was upgraded and I don't think the RC changed so much. But I don't run an RC so I don't track the changes so closely.

I suggest contacting RaceDynamics to see if they make a model to suit - racedynamics.com/c/

Thanks 😁

It's an expensive bit of carbon if you don't get the hole in the right place - and I've seen it done. The measurements are in the description of the video showing how to make this removable (as Akrapovic intended) if you just want to drill it. It really isn't hard to drill out some rivets.

Yes, you can use the Lite. Pro is not autotune so it cannot be used that way, it must be used by someone who has the technical expertise to choose the right setting - hence why it is called Pro - for Professional.

@@MotoMirius Thanks a lot

It will if you buy the version for the 2023 BS6 390 Duke

Glad you liked it. Thanks

Because then it's not under spring tension as you are undoing the bolts. In this case it probably doesn't matter too much, but it's best practice and avoids risk of damage to the spring as you remove it.

@@MotoMiriusThat makes sense now. Wasn’t even thinking about the pressure it would be putting on the bolts. Appreciate ya as always ✌🏼

Two possibilities - not a good quality saw (this is stainless steel so a hard metal and your saw is now blunt) or the nose of your drill has hit the end of the exhaust so cannot cut any deeper

@@MotoMirius thanks for answering, saw didn't hit and I tested two good saws for metal, I guess weld is just very thick, I see progress it is just very slow, I'm about to hit 30mm depth so I hope I will finish this in a few hours

@@MotoMirius and thank you for making this video

​@@MotoMiriusI did it, saws I had were meant for metal but they didn't cut stainless steel, I bought bosch like you and it worked instantly

@@skrrrttt999 Great job!

Depends if you have done anything else. If this is your only change you may be OK with just riding, but if you have made any other changes then you should add a piggyback ECU, at least a FuelX Lite (not Pro) - probably a good idea to add this anyway to be safe.

@@MotoMirius thank you for your answer I’m just really thinking to Hammer it out , and put it back , but I’m concerned about error light like check engine etc , I have an Akropovic exhaust , but only the last part I still have the cat and the pre silencer , and also I’m thinking to just buy a pipe cuz if the air flow not perfect like it’s mentioned in the video , without drilling it , idk better just get a pipe

According to the Race Dynamics engineers, the Lite is capable of adjusting for all levels of mods.

It would depend what the issue is. It can be difficult to diagnose over the internet because often the fact that you can't diagnose the issue is because you are overlooking something - and this will mean I can't either. However the front brake is mounted to the axle fixing part of the fork so unless the fork bottom is damaged, I'm not sure how the fork will be involved since the axle and wheel do not move with the fork?

I don't have a gen 1 but most of the same comments apply. The big difference with the gen 1 is that the airflow goes into the top of the airbox and not the bottom as it does on the gen2, so there is a different air box lid modification and you can even remove the airbox lid (but better to replace with a proper filter).

@@MotoMirius I’ve replaced the air filter with k&n I will see how it runs with no airbox lid

FuelX won't in itself give you a power boost. What it can do is to assist with the bike being able to utilise the other power improvements that you have made but may be under utilised by the emissions controls on the stock ECU.

Fuel X Pro also requires the same skills as the main PowerTRONIC unit - it is designed for a short term modification of a custom map - say you take a trip to somewhere with different conditions but don't want to make a custom map for that one off event - it is not autotune in the sense that many people seem to think it is. If you are just looking for automatic fuelling adjustments then the Lite is what you are looking at. However given your level of mods you might want to consider something that monitors more sensors such as the RapidBike Evo. Lite and Evo will both take care of the mods but the EVO is likely to create a better map.

@@MotoMirius really thanks for you response… you got straight answers as always.. the forums out there confuse me a lot you just given me with the right information with out any fuzz

I appreciate that! Thanks!

Yes, and I said that you then need to top up which will take you up to 1.7l - depending how much oil was left in the engine.

I assume that you have the Pro?

@@MotoMirius yes sir, I have a pro and currently I’m riding on 7 blinks at city and 4 blinks on higher altitude. Well not so higher altitude may be 2400 Meters above sea level.

@@ayushrana7505 The Pro is designed to work with a map so that you can make a one off adjustment - like when you are at higher altitude, so it should work well for your use. But first you need to have a base map for your normal riding. In normal riding, the Pro should be set in the neutral position - because your base map should be tuned for that. If you are riding with just the stock ECU then you need to do some testing to see what the setting you need is - there are a number of factors which drive this - temperature, humidity, altitude etc which means there is no advice I can give you as this will be different for you than for me even if we both had exactly the same bike setup. Be VERY wary of using a setting because someone else thinks it is the best one - this is an easy way to damage your engine, and engine rebuilds are very expensive. I recommend finding a reputable dyno in your area (ideally one used by people who race on the track - not someone who does it over the internet or is used by the street racers) and get them to test for the correct setting.

@@MotoMirius sir, I am riding with dna air filters and on the city I am riding on 5 blinks and if I am riding on 2500 meters altitude above sea level then I’m riding on blink 2.

@@ayushrana7505 Pro is intended for race teams so that they can make a one off change to their tested base map - but this change is made under the hands of a skilled mechanic. It doesn't matter what your setup is - you need to test what is the correct setting for your setup and location - and this can change at different times of year. No one can advise you over the internet what the correct settings are.

You're welcome!

Yes, it is normally possible to weld on the frame - but the electronics should all be disconnected - your welder should be aware of this.

You are very welcome

Nice work! And thanks for the link - that will be very useful for people

You can do that, but I would recommend the DNA stage 2 lid not the Coober, even if you keep your stock air filter. The price difference is not worth buying the product with less air flow.

@@MotoMirius Alrighty ! Going with your recommendation , thanks

The Akrapovic slip on that KTM sells is more free flowing than this conversion and KTM are very clear that no changes are needed when fitting the Akrapovic

It all depends what you are trying to do. It isn't necessary but a good airbox lid such as the Stage 2 DNA will improve airflow and make the bike louder.

@@MotoMirius will effect performance if I just change the exhaust ( free flow ) but leave the air box lid and filter stock ? Does it cause any harm in my engine ? ( fuel x lite will be installed with this set up )

@@Feenyu It won't cause any harm, but you will not obtain the full benefit from a free flow exhaust is the inlet is still restricted. If you are looking for performance then you might also want to look for a more advanced piggyback ECU than the FuelX.

@@MotoMirius Not performance, just looking for better sound . Bought the mid pipe link that connects on the cat on my KTM 390 Duke 2021 . Fuel x lite and people were telling since I will be removing that pre - silencer to obtain better sound , I will also need to change the air box lid together with the filter inside . That was my doubt . I was scared the fuel x lite won’t be enough for the exhaust and air filters mods .

@@MotoMirius can I just mod the airbox lid leaving the stock air filter inside ?

I don't have a gen 1 so I can't advise where the wire is on that model, but from memory the tap is on the air temp sensor so you should be able to spot the sensor on the gen 1 airbox.

@@MotoMirius i believe i tapped into the right one as my module didnt come with instructions the bike died a few times after install one of the time required me top bump it but since i have had no problems.

@@MotoMirius I also wanted to ask about airbox mods to the gen 1 since i cant seem to find any free flowing lids since the design is difrent on gen 1s

I would imagine that the Adventure has a longer rear shock which would be an issue. This shock can be rebuilt so it would be possible to change the spring.

Doesn't need to do anything, just cleans up the look of the bike - if you are going to make a bike that looks like an old Harley then why would it have piping around the engine?

Best of luck with the job on your '97 B6! Glad the video could help.

@@MotoMirius Thanks! Job went well. Night and day with the new YSS shock compared to what was probably the original rear shock.

@@RBDK95 Excellent, well done!

The tail tidy was already fitted when I bought the bike, but yes, you would need to modify

Glad you enjoy it! Thanks

Thanks, take it slowly and you will be fine!

Hi, it is an allen key. Personally I don't recommend buying individual allen keys (or spanners) in common sizes - much cheaper in the long run to buy a set. But yes it is a 7mm

There will normally be a seal underneath. Clean it off and see if the oil comes back - then see if you need a new gasket.

@@MotoMirius I see. Thanks a lot.